File Size: 11352 KB
Print Length: 466 pages
Publisher: Penguin Books (July 21, 2015)
Publication Date: July 21, 2015
For anyone of us who surf, the book will bring special meaning covering as it does the history of surfing, evolution of surfboard designs and transition from the long board to the agile short panel and on to tow in surfing to permit a rider to catch a wave fifty feet high, waves that could not have to get surfed before tow in technique was developed. For the reader who has tried surfing or body surfing and felt the power of the ocean then decided not to take up searching, this guide will still hold much meaning as a story about the zone where ocean meets land, where people try to co-exist with the strength of the surf and where a life style built around searching continues to evolve. Typically the author delves into personalities, territorial claims on the waves themselves, human pecking orders and power problems, life on the cheap, and the struggle to survive on almost no while chasing bigger and better waves in distant, challenging to attain locations.
Finnegan discusses his family life and the turmoil and rip tides in the zones where family needs and searching demands often conflict and hard choices about values and love must be made. The story starts in his boyhood years then progresses all the way through his teenage a number of into an extended maybe twenty year period of delayed maturity as he chases the waves to exclusion of other aspects of growing up. Typically the sport of surfing changes during their own years of growth. Corporations and Big Media enter the surfing world wth an eye to making lots of money as hundreds of thousands of youth across the world are reeled in by the images and appeal of this looser way of life. Hard-core browsers and action junkies get into surfing waves produced by cold, winter thunder or wind storms and by hurricane gusts of wind. Finnegan knows and stocks their stories.
I uncovered a lot I didn’t know as I read the book and will enjoy my trips to Beautiful hawaii and California much more now that I have the concept of what goes on out in the surf and how the web surfer lifestyle operates. The publication much more enjoyable if the reader views video of the special breaks and waves and locations explained by the writer. Photos in the book add compound to the text. The great ride even if you do not surf., I always enjoy getting acquainted with issue matter that I may have a lot of insight into. Becoming a midwestern landlubber, surfing definitely inspections the box for myself regarding this. While the publication was definitely well-written, I was expecting a lighter in weight, and more entertaining read that was more centered on surfing. The author uses surfing as a narrative device and a metaphor for his memoir without getting into any of the cultural components that makes surfing so interesting to the incomer.
Finnegan is a skilled writer, no doubt, and he has written a little bit of everything from magazine features to books to op-eds. Thus, I have to imagine the very languid (torpid? ) memoir approach he took, absent much of anything breezy was a conscious decision.
It absolutely was a lttle bit of a slog for me and the only reason I finished it was because it won a Pulitzer Prize., I found this book to be amazing in it's reading. Because others have noted, is actually a compelling read and a page-turner. The reports and chapters keep piling on like sets of waves with few lulls. I've lived in FLORIDA only as an mature and have frequently traveled to HI, mostly Oahu and Waikiki and surrounding towns of Diamond Mind. I could easily associate to the descriptions of many locations and can only picture vicariously what it could have been like to have these early childhood activities. It absolutely was fascinating to myself to read about someone so dedicated to a single passion that he returned to throughout his adult life. I question at what point searching in his life which was no longer optional. Following finishing the book I felt a lttle bit anxious and sad that it experienced to come for an conclusion. You just want to go back to webpage 1 and start reading everything over again., Right up until reading this book, I only knew the author's writing in the form of long nonfiction articles published in the Fresh Yorker. I always popular his wide ranging interest for diverse subjects and his keen ability to present facts in a manner that put the reader right into the action. He's accomplished that in spades in this seat-of-your-boardshorts memoir. Finnegan had me tasting sodium in the lips and literally wiping surf spray off the screen of my tablet as I followed his adventures world wide. But there's more between the pages here than a long decline down the face of a towering twenty footer or a race through a closing out canal on a thin bit of foam and fiberglass. He reveals both soul and spirit, not only of the surf culture he inhabits, but of a boy growing into adulthood during turbulent times. Ride on., I stood on a surfboard for the first time at almost 50 years old. It absolutely was a revelation, and I wondered how life might have unfolded had I had the same experience decades earlier. I could only wonder what it might wind up as to really ride a wave, a huge one, to understand ocean and waves, also to hold the ocean be home. Philistine Days gives a glance into the complexity and the simplicity of a searching life. It's a lttle bit technological and, until you surf, you won't have any idea what Bill Finnegan is talking about as he describes wave formation, panel design, or how to approach stake-off point. Nevertheless if, as I have, you've wondered what you might have missed, Philistine Days shows you. Finnegan's reflections on his searching life are thoughtfully recalled and well-told., Loved reading about Southern California during the 1950s and ’60s and how Finnegan learned to surf in FLORIDA and then Hawaii. Nice comparision of diff styles and issues for a kid. Interesting finding searching for the solitude and the perfect waves in many other great surfing spots on earth. A book for browsers to relish and non-surfers to understand surfing culture.
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